Tuesday, December 30, 2008

Myamnar - Lake Inle, Mandalay, Yangon, Bagan

I was worry that after getting so comfortable in life in the last few years, I would have felt backpacking too scungy. However, as the plane landed in Yangon International Airport, I got this familiar adrenaline rush and I knew immediately that backpacking is still in my blood!! :D

The trip has been a beautiful experience. The people here really touched me and every now and then there would be something that touched me so much that I had tear in my eyes. I really like the people and it is not just because they always called me pretty :p but also they were so sincere and honest. They might be poor in material wealth, but they are so rich in their pure good hearted kindness.

My soft spot toward Myanmar people went through 3 stages though. First stage, I just loved that they have no harming intention towards others but purely friendliness.
  • There was no electricity at night at some places, but I felt safe walking in the dark alley in a foreign village alone as a single female traveller with stranger men sitting next to an open fire on the side street, with reddish chewing tobacco in their mouths and saying "Hi" to me (I had to admit, it took me a day or two to realise that they had no bad intention to me. All they wanted was just to say Hi and made me feel welcome).
  • People gave me a free ride and got me a cheap taxi.
  • Random locals/kids just loved to come up to me, talked to me in English and made sure I was okay.
  • 5 o'clock in the morning, a local horse cart man walked with me to the temple to make sure I wouldn't get lost.
Stories like those above really touched me and made me feel so grateful for their kindness. They were poor and they worked hard to earn their living, but they love smiling and singing and most importantly they haven't gone bitter with all the hardship in life. They might not have a lot, but they are so rich in having a simple happy life and having the virtual to be kind.

However, my second stage towards Myanmar wasn't so pleasant. I went bitter after I felt that I couldn't trust people's story and price. I turned hard hearted after a bargaining exercise in Lake Inle. A set of transitional cloth started with 22 USD and I started my bargaining with 5 USD. In the end, the woman agreed to sell me for 10 USD as I walked away from the shop. It really killed me to turn down the deal. I felt awful, but at the same time I lost the trust in people. I hate dishonesty, so having them had such flexible price made me feel really irritated. In Mandalay, young kids were so eager for tourist money. They swarmed towards us with souvenir or wanting to be my guide and hoping in return for some tips. I did give tip for their incredible tourist knowledge, but I refused to buy anything. I could have bought some from one kid and helped one with some lucky money, but I couldn't have helped them all.

They all spoke English well and can also speak simple Spanish, German, French, Italian, Chinese and so on. It seemed that it's all from the same textbook as their questions were all standalised
"How are you?" "My name is ..." "What's your name?" "Nice to meet you" "How old are you?" "Where are you from?" "Do you have any brother or sisters?"
However, they also came up with similar inconsistent stories such as having no mother or no father to gain my sympathy. It really broke my heart to see those kids struggling with life and they had to learn and lie to earn money. I was quite hard hearted even it broke my heart every time when I had to refuse those eager kids with innocent smile. I didn't buy anything from anyone in the first 7 days except an donation to a school. A young man started a school teaching village kids English and Computing for free. I was touched by his ambition and passion, so I made a donation. I couldn't help all the children by buying their necklaces, but I believe education will help them more.

I was glad that I ended my trip in Myanmar with the third stage. I realised that no matter how much I dislike the money eager attitude from some of the people, everyone I came across were still sincere. Venders and kids were disappointed when I didn't buy or didn't gave a bigger tip, but they wouldn't turn bitter or angry at me. They were still friendly and sincere. They changed my mind and touched my heart again. I remember a teenager boy said to me, "Next time when you come, I'll show you the one thousand Buddha and my school. Also, I'll buy you an longi (traditional skirt) as a gift". That was after I refused to give him more tip for showing me around for 3 hours. (His friend got 5USD when I only gave him 3USD).

I did buy some sand painting and necklaces in the last 2 days. Yes, I could be gutted and thought I could have got it for cheaper. It's true that I might cut the price lower to 7USD or even 5USD. However, it's only few dollars less for me, but for them 3 or 5 USD meant much more. Really, those 3-5 USD is nothing for me, but for them it's life! Once I let it go, I was once again in love with the Myanmar people.

Thank you for those who I came across, looked after me and made my trip in Myanmar so memorable :)